Oscar77
09-01-2007, 04:21 PM
Everything I Know about Buying and Raising Wild Discus
by Tony Ann Mistretta
Wild discus varieties include browns, greens, blues, reds and heckels. Wild forms are variable in coloration and patterning. Browns range from a plain brown to lovely shades of red, all of which can have blue striations. Greens may develop into the highly regarded spotted forms. Unspotted greens are usually a lovely golden green. The reds and blues vary in intensity and shades of coloration, striations and spotting as well, while heckels are often found with golden or blue casts to their bodies.
Buying Guidelines
The first thing to decide is where and in what condition to obtain wild discus. There are several importers that ship by the box in lots of 10 or more or one form, depending on the size discus. Some importers will mix and match varieties in one box. Most importers ship discus classified as small (1.5-2.5), medium(2.5-4) or large (4+). Discus from importers are usually directly from the rivers and tributaries of South American and have received no treatment for internal or external parasites. These discus are often in pretty rough shape but quickly turn around with proper care. Prices generally range from $8-15 per fish. Important things to note are discus size, condition - have they been kept by importer for several weeks or are they shipped immediately from importer, shipping costs and guarantee that what you order is what you receive. It is difficult to be sure what you really have (unless they are heckels!) when buying very small discus. Check on the reputation of the importers before making a large purchase.
Wild discus are also available from sellers that condition wild discus by treating for parasites and getting them on a “normal” discus diet. Prices range from $25 to over $100 for rare or popular varieties. Buying treated wild discus is advantageous in that they have already been medicated for external and internal parasites.
Preparation and Conditioning
I initially set up smaller tank (20 gal) to reduce cost of worming and external parasite medication.
Cycle the tank for your discus before they arrive. I cycle my tanks with Bristle nose plecos or farlowellas, which can be left in the tank after your discus arrive, although I have had them eat a few farlowellas. Wild discus prefer a lower pH than most domestic discus. In my experience, wild discus will show signs of discomfort at pH greater than 6.5 and thrive at pH 5.5-6.0. Total hardness (calcium + magnesium) in my wild tanks range from 70-120 ppm (mg/ml). Untreated peat or black water extracts often enhance the water quality. My established tanks are barebottom with scattered large pebbles and lots of driftwood. The wood leaches tannins and lignins into the water giving it a quality of wild discus waters with a lovely tea color. Be sure to use untreated wood that has been disinfected. I disinfect beach driftwood by boiling in dilute bleach followed by extensive rinsing with fresh water.
As soon as wild discus arrive I treat for external parasites with Quick Cure or similar product. Add 1-2 drop per gallon depending on the condition of the fish. I repeat this treatment every other day with 40% water changes and then repeat the entire cycle in two weeks.
Wild discus should be treated with at least two rounds of a worming medicine. I currently use Discoworm added directly to the tank water every other day for 5 days (three additions of medication) with 40% water changes in between. I do not recommend flubenol for worming although many discus owners have had success with this medication. In my experience, stressed discus are more sensitive to this medication and easily overdosed.
Feeding
Wild discus are voracious eaters and are easy to acclimate to different types of food. Initially I feed bloodworms and live redworms (cut). Once they are feeding regularly, I wean off bloodworms to my own frozen mix of vitamin supplemented beefheart, liver, catfish, spirulina, and leaf lettuce or romaine. Food change is accomplished by mixing new food with bloodworms and slowly reducing bloodworm amount over time. I continue to supplement with redworms 2-3 days a week.
Aggression
Wild discus exhibit aggression just like domestic discus and should be observed carefully. Discus will often pick at each other, but some aggression can become severe. It is important to take steps to remedy any severe aggression, since any discus can be overly stressed and become ill from this activity. Overly aggressive fish can be moved to a separate tank or a plastic drop ceiling tile cut to fit can be placed in the tank.
Long Term Care
Water changes, water changes, water changes! Wild discus are less forgiving of poor water conditions. I recommend 25% water changes every or every other day for juveniles and the same at 2-3 times a week for larger discus after they are established and eating well.
I have found wild discus to be no more difficult to keep than domestic discus with the proper initial care. Enjoy!
by Tony Ann Mistretta
Wild discus varieties include browns, greens, blues, reds and heckels. Wild forms are variable in coloration and patterning. Browns range from a plain brown to lovely shades of red, all of which can have blue striations. Greens may develop into the highly regarded spotted forms. Unspotted greens are usually a lovely golden green. The reds and blues vary in intensity and shades of coloration, striations and spotting as well, while heckels are often found with golden or blue casts to their bodies.
Buying Guidelines
The first thing to decide is where and in what condition to obtain wild discus. There are several importers that ship by the box in lots of 10 or more or one form, depending on the size discus. Some importers will mix and match varieties in one box. Most importers ship discus classified as small (1.5-2.5), medium(2.5-4) or large (4+). Discus from importers are usually directly from the rivers and tributaries of South American and have received no treatment for internal or external parasites. These discus are often in pretty rough shape but quickly turn around with proper care. Prices generally range from $8-15 per fish. Important things to note are discus size, condition - have they been kept by importer for several weeks or are they shipped immediately from importer, shipping costs and guarantee that what you order is what you receive. It is difficult to be sure what you really have (unless they are heckels!) when buying very small discus. Check on the reputation of the importers before making a large purchase.
Wild discus are also available from sellers that condition wild discus by treating for parasites and getting them on a “normal” discus diet. Prices range from $25 to over $100 for rare or popular varieties. Buying treated wild discus is advantageous in that they have already been medicated for external and internal parasites.
Preparation and Conditioning
I initially set up smaller tank (20 gal) to reduce cost of worming and external parasite medication.
Cycle the tank for your discus before they arrive. I cycle my tanks with Bristle nose plecos or farlowellas, which can be left in the tank after your discus arrive, although I have had them eat a few farlowellas. Wild discus prefer a lower pH than most domestic discus. In my experience, wild discus will show signs of discomfort at pH greater than 6.5 and thrive at pH 5.5-6.0. Total hardness (calcium + magnesium) in my wild tanks range from 70-120 ppm (mg/ml). Untreated peat or black water extracts often enhance the water quality. My established tanks are barebottom with scattered large pebbles and lots of driftwood. The wood leaches tannins and lignins into the water giving it a quality of wild discus waters with a lovely tea color. Be sure to use untreated wood that has been disinfected. I disinfect beach driftwood by boiling in dilute bleach followed by extensive rinsing with fresh water.
As soon as wild discus arrive I treat for external parasites with Quick Cure or similar product. Add 1-2 drop per gallon depending on the condition of the fish. I repeat this treatment every other day with 40% water changes and then repeat the entire cycle in two weeks.
Wild discus should be treated with at least two rounds of a worming medicine. I currently use Discoworm added directly to the tank water every other day for 5 days (three additions of medication) with 40% water changes in between. I do not recommend flubenol for worming although many discus owners have had success with this medication. In my experience, stressed discus are more sensitive to this medication and easily overdosed.
Feeding
Wild discus are voracious eaters and are easy to acclimate to different types of food. Initially I feed bloodworms and live redworms (cut). Once they are feeding regularly, I wean off bloodworms to my own frozen mix of vitamin supplemented beefheart, liver, catfish, spirulina, and leaf lettuce or romaine. Food change is accomplished by mixing new food with bloodworms and slowly reducing bloodworm amount over time. I continue to supplement with redworms 2-3 days a week.
Aggression
Wild discus exhibit aggression just like domestic discus and should be observed carefully. Discus will often pick at each other, but some aggression can become severe. It is important to take steps to remedy any severe aggression, since any discus can be overly stressed and become ill from this activity. Overly aggressive fish can be moved to a separate tank or a plastic drop ceiling tile cut to fit can be placed in the tank.
Long Term Care
Water changes, water changes, water changes! Wild discus are less forgiving of poor water conditions. I recommend 25% water changes every or every other day for juveniles and the same at 2-3 times a week for larger discus after they are established and eating well.
I have found wild discus to be no more difficult to keep than domestic discus with the proper initial care. Enjoy!