SniperY
24-03-2006, 12:19 AM
There is no mystery when it comes to maintaining a tropical tank in tip-top condition. Follow a few simple rules and you'll be well on the way to maintaining a tank that is the pride of all.
First of all, it is vital to have
the correct equipment - a
user-friendly tank is a priority. The filter should be able to run for at least two months without any reduction in its efficiency.
Juwel tanks fit this criteria perfectly as they have an efficient internal filter with a slow turnover. The heater is contained in the filter and disperses warm water throughout the tank.
The tanks are finished in plastic, which does not deteriorate as fast as chipboard, and you have easy access to the tank by removing the light unit.
The systemised tank comes complete with all the necessary equipment and is good value. Although there are no hidden expenses for extra heating and lighting units, it does have the disadvantage of some complicated wiring.
The next golden rule is to stock your tank lightly. The filters will last longer, algae problems will be reduced, and your maintenance regime will also be reduced. If you overstock the tank, nitrate builds up more quickly and algae grows faster. So always set the stocking level at half the recommended rate.
The use of good quality water is essential. For our soft water set-up we use RO water buffered with 20% London hard tapwater. For our hard water set-up, the water has been treated to remove nitrate and phosphate, the prime causes of algae. The water is run through an appropriate resin to remove about 90% of nitrate and phosphate.
Get close to the action
Those are the fundamentals. Now let's look at a basic maintenance regime:
The first thing is to switch the electricity off - never be tempted to try shortcuts.
Place dust sheets around the tank to mop up any spills. Carefully remove flaps and place them on the dust sheet
or towel and then remove the light unit and place it by the side of the tank so you have complete access to work
without hindrance.
Have two 20 l./4 gal. containers handy; one for replacing the water, and one for removing the water.
Draw the water off through the internal filter, having first removed the sponges. This gets rid of excess detritus collected in the filter, which
would be flushed back into the tank when the sponges are replaced.
By siphoning through the filter, you reduce disturbance and avoid sucking up both plants and unsuspecting fish. It is a good idea to mark the 20 l./5 gal. level if using a large container so the water you take out is matched by the water you replace.
Plant maintenance
The next step is what I call gardening. Remove all the floating plants, which are key to success in a planted aquaria. They reduce stress in the fish, take up nitrate and phosphate, reduce excessive light and act as biological filters. They are also a wonderful safety net in the event of power cuts.
My professional tanks have a good covering of Amazon Frogbit, Phyllanthus fluitans, and the floating grasses. They are attractive and are a good indicator of the overall health of the tank. If they become yellow and spindly and covered with algae, it is a sign of poor water quality. They should normally be lush green and free from algae.
Conversely, an over-abundance of growth is also a sign of problems. Check to see if there has been a power cut or whether the lights have been left permanently on. Either can cause rapid plant growth.
In an ideal world, you would remove 100% of the floating plants. However, this is very time-consuming. Out of the plants I remove, I select about 25% to return to the tank, thereby reducing the cover by 75%. I then trim the plants to remove dead leaves and excess roots, which will make more light available to stimulate the plants beneath.
Next remove dying leaves. You can be quite brutal because the plants grow vigorously, especially where you have CO2 injection systems.
Any weedy plants can also be removed as other more vigorous plants will take their place.
Sword plants that have grown too big should be removed too, as they restrict light and remove large quantities of nutrients.
You can either trim back the outer leaves or, if there are baby plantlets, plant these instead; they will soon grow as vigorously as the parent plants.
The treatment of stem plants is different to those of rosettes. I call these "cut and come again". They include Hygrophila, Ludwigia and Stargrass. You can cut them back to as little as 5cm/2", and the cuttings can be planted to make additional plants.
While using your fingers is OK for stem plants, it should be avoided when working with rosette plants where the whole leaf has to be removed. Instead, use surgical scissors so as not to damage the crown, or it may rot.
This is especially true with Vallis which can rot right back and damage the whole plant; any wounds on plants also encourage hair algae, which looks unsightly.
I have invested in Aquatic Landscapes' gardening kit, which has a spatula, some tweezers and a pair of surgical scissors.
Sucking up sludge
When the gardening is complete, remove the detritus from the dead spots in the tank. I have not yet found anything to beat the old-fashioned airlift hoover, which eliminates detritus on the ground.
Although most of the hoovers have been designed for gravel cleaning and sludge removal, the function is not essential in a planted tank and I think it can actually be detrimental.
The next step is to clean the glass. You'll probably have to do this with the lights on and again when they are off as you will always miss some algae, which can be difficult to see through the glass.
I have tried all manner of scrapers and have even adapted a Halfords' ice scraper to good effect. I also use green scouring pads, but they can scratch the glass. Avoid algae magnets because pieces of gravel can get caught and scratch the glass.
The best tool by far is the Kent Marine Pro Scraper. It comes with either a plastic or metal blade. In my kit, I have both a hand-held one and a 58cm/23"-handled blade to tackle the hard-to-reach areas at the back.
Even though you cannot always see the algae, you can feel it. It is surprisingly rough to the touch and with experience, you can even hear it as you scrape; the sound changes where the algae is on the glass.
To clean the limescale at the top of the tank, I either use the Pro Scraper or a lemon as its acid neutralises the limescale.
The next step is to check the sponges. Should they need cleaning, it is important to do this in tank water to avoid damage to the bacteria. Normally, they only need cleaning every two or three months, depending on the stocking levels. They are simply replaced and the water is then replaced and returned to
the tank. This is done through the filter box to avoid disturbance.
Once the water has been replaced, the electricity is turned on - the filter can run and clear the water that has
been disturbed. This enables the tank to settle down.
Don't waste the grungy water, which can be used as plant fertiliser either in the house or garden, or dried to make a filter starting culture.
At the same time as you clean and unclog the filters, strip down the filter motor so it runs quietly and efficiently. This involves taking out the impellor and cleaning it. Hagen's Fluval impeller brush set works well.
Water wise
I always check the water next. I use the 5-in-1 strip tests supplied by eSHa as they are cheap, easy to use and give a good indication of any problems. They test for general and carbonate hardness and, importantly, nitrite and nitrate. I aim to keep nitrate between 0 and 20 ppm.
I cannot over-emphasise the importance of regular water testing for warning of problems. It is a good idea to log the readings so you can see any trends, pH swings or nitrate build-up.
For those computer addicts out there, why not work the results into a graph in an Excel spreadsheet? I have a nifty little programme for my palmtop called "Aquatank" that records my maintenance routine. It is available as a free download on the Internet.
You can also calculate the exact number of water changes you need to make on the new PFK website.
It is also good to note what maintenance routine you have completed and to observe the results.
With the job done, you can observe the fish to ensure they are showing no signs of disease. The glass can then be given the final once-over with a soft cloth and the equipment and timer checked. You now have a beautifully maintained tank
with plants and fish shown off
to their best effect.
First of all, it is vital to have
the correct equipment - a
user-friendly tank is a priority. The filter should be able to run for at least two months without any reduction in its efficiency.
Juwel tanks fit this criteria perfectly as they have an efficient internal filter with a slow turnover. The heater is contained in the filter and disperses warm water throughout the tank.
The tanks are finished in plastic, which does not deteriorate as fast as chipboard, and you have easy access to the tank by removing the light unit.
The systemised tank comes complete with all the necessary equipment and is good value. Although there are no hidden expenses for extra heating and lighting units, it does have the disadvantage of some complicated wiring.
The next golden rule is to stock your tank lightly. The filters will last longer, algae problems will be reduced, and your maintenance regime will also be reduced. If you overstock the tank, nitrate builds up more quickly and algae grows faster. So always set the stocking level at half the recommended rate.
The use of good quality water is essential. For our soft water set-up we use RO water buffered with 20% London hard tapwater. For our hard water set-up, the water has been treated to remove nitrate and phosphate, the prime causes of algae. The water is run through an appropriate resin to remove about 90% of nitrate and phosphate.
Get close to the action
Those are the fundamentals. Now let's look at a basic maintenance regime:
The first thing is to switch the electricity off - never be tempted to try shortcuts.
Place dust sheets around the tank to mop up any spills. Carefully remove flaps and place them on the dust sheet
or towel and then remove the light unit and place it by the side of the tank so you have complete access to work
without hindrance.
Have two 20 l./4 gal. containers handy; one for replacing the water, and one for removing the water.
Draw the water off through the internal filter, having first removed the sponges. This gets rid of excess detritus collected in the filter, which
would be flushed back into the tank when the sponges are replaced.
By siphoning through the filter, you reduce disturbance and avoid sucking up both plants and unsuspecting fish. It is a good idea to mark the 20 l./5 gal. level if using a large container so the water you take out is matched by the water you replace.
Plant maintenance
The next step is what I call gardening. Remove all the floating plants, which are key to success in a planted aquaria. They reduce stress in the fish, take up nitrate and phosphate, reduce excessive light and act as biological filters. They are also a wonderful safety net in the event of power cuts.
My professional tanks have a good covering of Amazon Frogbit, Phyllanthus fluitans, and the floating grasses. They are attractive and are a good indicator of the overall health of the tank. If they become yellow and spindly and covered with algae, it is a sign of poor water quality. They should normally be lush green and free from algae.
Conversely, an over-abundance of growth is also a sign of problems. Check to see if there has been a power cut or whether the lights have been left permanently on. Either can cause rapid plant growth.
In an ideal world, you would remove 100% of the floating plants. However, this is very time-consuming. Out of the plants I remove, I select about 25% to return to the tank, thereby reducing the cover by 75%. I then trim the plants to remove dead leaves and excess roots, which will make more light available to stimulate the plants beneath.
Next remove dying leaves. You can be quite brutal because the plants grow vigorously, especially where you have CO2 injection systems.
Any weedy plants can also be removed as other more vigorous plants will take their place.
Sword plants that have grown too big should be removed too, as they restrict light and remove large quantities of nutrients.
You can either trim back the outer leaves or, if there are baby plantlets, plant these instead; they will soon grow as vigorously as the parent plants.
The treatment of stem plants is different to those of rosettes. I call these "cut and come again". They include Hygrophila, Ludwigia and Stargrass. You can cut them back to as little as 5cm/2", and the cuttings can be planted to make additional plants.
While using your fingers is OK for stem plants, it should be avoided when working with rosette plants where the whole leaf has to be removed. Instead, use surgical scissors so as not to damage the crown, or it may rot.
This is especially true with Vallis which can rot right back and damage the whole plant; any wounds on plants also encourage hair algae, which looks unsightly.
I have invested in Aquatic Landscapes' gardening kit, which has a spatula, some tweezers and a pair of surgical scissors.
Sucking up sludge
When the gardening is complete, remove the detritus from the dead spots in the tank. I have not yet found anything to beat the old-fashioned airlift hoover, which eliminates detritus on the ground.
Although most of the hoovers have been designed for gravel cleaning and sludge removal, the function is not essential in a planted tank and I think it can actually be detrimental.
The next step is to clean the glass. You'll probably have to do this with the lights on and again when they are off as you will always miss some algae, which can be difficult to see through the glass.
I have tried all manner of scrapers and have even adapted a Halfords' ice scraper to good effect. I also use green scouring pads, but they can scratch the glass. Avoid algae magnets because pieces of gravel can get caught and scratch the glass.
The best tool by far is the Kent Marine Pro Scraper. It comes with either a plastic or metal blade. In my kit, I have both a hand-held one and a 58cm/23"-handled blade to tackle the hard-to-reach areas at the back.
Even though you cannot always see the algae, you can feel it. It is surprisingly rough to the touch and with experience, you can even hear it as you scrape; the sound changes where the algae is on the glass.
To clean the limescale at the top of the tank, I either use the Pro Scraper or a lemon as its acid neutralises the limescale.
The next step is to check the sponges. Should they need cleaning, it is important to do this in tank water to avoid damage to the bacteria. Normally, they only need cleaning every two or three months, depending on the stocking levels. They are simply replaced and the water is then replaced and returned to
the tank. This is done through the filter box to avoid disturbance.
Once the water has been replaced, the electricity is turned on - the filter can run and clear the water that has
been disturbed. This enables the tank to settle down.
Don't waste the grungy water, which can be used as plant fertiliser either in the house or garden, or dried to make a filter starting culture.
At the same time as you clean and unclog the filters, strip down the filter motor so it runs quietly and efficiently. This involves taking out the impellor and cleaning it. Hagen's Fluval impeller brush set works well.
Water wise
I always check the water next. I use the 5-in-1 strip tests supplied by eSHa as they are cheap, easy to use and give a good indication of any problems. They test for general and carbonate hardness and, importantly, nitrite and nitrate. I aim to keep nitrate between 0 and 20 ppm.
I cannot over-emphasise the importance of regular water testing for warning of problems. It is a good idea to log the readings so you can see any trends, pH swings or nitrate build-up.
For those computer addicts out there, why not work the results into a graph in an Excel spreadsheet? I have a nifty little programme for my palmtop called "Aquatank" that records my maintenance routine. It is available as a free download on the Internet.
You can also calculate the exact number of water changes you need to make on the new PFK website.
It is also good to note what maintenance routine you have completed and to observe the results.
With the job done, you can observe the fish to ensure they are showing no signs of disease. The glass can then be given the final once-over with a soft cloth and the equipment and timer checked. You now have a beautifully maintained tank
with plants and fish shown off
to their best effect.