SniperY
14-03-2006, 11:42 AM
With so many different types of tank on the market, how do you know which type to go for?
What makes a good aquarium? First of all, the glass must be high quality and of sufficient thickness. There are trade guidelines which state that aquaria designed to have a water depth greater than 44cm/17"? must be constructed of at least 6mm thick glass.
Where aquaria are 90cm/36"? or greater in length, they should be made in 6mm glass when exceeding 38cm/15" in height, and in 10mm glass where the water depth exceeds 45cm/18" depth.
Silicone joints should be neat and tidy. There should be absolutely no damage to the edges or joints of the glass and no flaws in the panels.
A floating base obviates the need for polystyrene cushioning under the aquarium.
Where bracing bars are used, give a thought as to how they might affect access for equipment.
If using an older-style "wooden" hood or canopy, does the aquarium have a condensation cover and does this fit well while still allowing easy access to the water?
Choose the right size
Standard aquaria are now usually sold in centimetres rather than inches. So 60cm, 80cm, 100cm and 120cm are becoming standard sizes in place of the old 24"?, 30"?, 36"? and 48"? measurements.
In order that these sizes hold more water, some manufacturers are supplying taller aquaria. These can look better and allow more natural shoaling behaviour from your fish, too.
For aquaria larger than 120cm/48", you may have to place a special order for both the aquarium and cabinet.
Here's a quick guide to aquarium use by size:
45-60cm/18-24"?: Two small goldfish; OR a shoal (six) White Cloud Mountain minnows, Neons or similar-sized fish with a few Corydoras or other bottom-dwelling fish; Or opt for a single pair of spawning fish like dwarf cichlids.
80-100cm/30-39"?: A shoal of six small goldfish; OR a tropical community with small surface swimming, mid-water and bottom swimming fish; OR a small Rift Valley community of cichlids.
120cm/48": A community of goldfish and other coldwater species; OR a community of tropicals which can include larger fish like plecs, angels or other peaceful cichlids; OR a home for a single large Oscar or other cichlid; OR a home for some of the oddball species such as a single Polypterus or lungfish.
Styles
There are probably three basic styles of aquaria freely available. These are perhaps best defined as:
Bare bones - the basic aquarium with no equipment, except perhaps a hood or canopy.
Equipped - the basic aquarium with all the compatible equipment you need to run it supplied.
Systemised - an aquarium with fitted filtration, sometimes concealing the heating and in the case of marine aquaria, a foam fractionator (protein skimmer) and other equipment.
In different circumstances, all three are worth considering.
Clearly if you already have a lot of equipment, you may only need a "bare bones" replacement aquarium, and if you're after an odd-shaped or very large custom-built aquarium, this may be the most economic choice.
Fully equipped aquaria will invariably work out cheaper, whether you're buying a manufacturer's dedicated set or an aquarium and equipment put together by your local retailer. Each piece of the equipment should be compatible with the rest.
Systemised aquaria are often beautifully neat and tidy, but may be less adaptable than some set-ups if you want to change your filtration or even your water chemistry.
They do make especially good starter tanks, however. In some cases, all you need do is just add water and plug it in.
Site an aquarium away from...
Draughts, heat sources like radiators, direct sunlight (which promotes algae growth), corridors with rampaging children or pets, uneven floors, weak second-storey floors, and any other sources of loud noise.
Site it near...
An electricity supply (but not over it where a socket might be splashed); a source of tapwater (but not in the fumes and heat of a kitchen); a window (avoiding direct sunlight, if you want to syphon water onto the garden - a good green second use of your water change).
Glass or acrylic?
Acrylic pros: It's less brittle and stronger than glass, and will therefore survive small knocks and bangs better than glass. It's lighter, so easier to move around when empty.
It can be moulded in practically any shape, so you can buy unusual aquaria off-the-shelf and not rely on silicone joints.
Scratches can be polished out or lightened.
Acrylic offers more insulation and often comes with a lifetime guarantee.
Finally, acrylic tanks are incredibly easy to drill.
Acrylic cons: It scratches easily and will usually be more expensive than glass.
Glass pros: It doesn't scratch easily, and it's much cheaper than acrylic. It's easier to clean without damaging the surface.
It's probably easier to repair any damage (but not scratches). Glass is also less likely to be damaged by heat from overhead lighting.
Glass cons: Glass is brittle and if it does scratch, there's little you can do about it. It's heavy and as the volume of the aquarium increases, it needs to be thicker and thicker.
Glass aquaria are much more widely available than acrylic.
Hoods and canopies
Some very good hoods and canopies are now available with built-in waterproof lighting. These usually eliminate a lot of the old problems such as poor access to the aquarium. Here's what to look for when buying:
• If you want to develop new interests in the hobby (plants, marines), the hood should hold at least two tubes, preferably more.
• It should be easy to clean the aquarium without totally removing the hood.
• You need easy access for the cables of filters, heaters and lighting.
• You need waterproof lighting and a rot-proof hood material.
• You should have built-in light reflectors.
There are also special features like drip-proof canopies, which help avoid water-stained glass.
Cabinets
A purpose-made aquarium cabinet is a good idea as you can virtually guarantee that it will support the weight of your water-filled aquarium.
Now that aquariums are pieces of furniture, designed with your furniture and decor in mind, there's a wide choice of styles and designs. Although the minimum colour range choice is beech or black, many companies offer silver/grey cabinets, and custom builders can match virtually any colour or timber.
When buying, consider the cabinet design. It should be strong enough - but does it have room for an external filter if you want to use one? Will the cables and any pipes fit through the back of the cabinet.
Is it easy to keep your test kits, nets, syphons and other equipment tucked away inside the cabinet?
If you need to fit a hidden child-lock, is it suitable? Will the finish gradually be damaged by water?
Backdrops
Backdrops are the oft-forgotten finishing touch to any aquarium. In fact, the term "backdrop" is largely redundant now as many backdrops fit inside the aquarium.
Traditionally there were several options for the glass at the back of an aquarium. It could be painted from the outside (black was the usual choice); covered with adhesive plastic sheet; covered with a plastic photographic backdrop featuring the manufacturer's idea of the underwater biotope of your fish; or backed with various eccentric improvisations such as black plastic rubbish bags (surprisingly effective) or cork tiles.
Now some superb internal backing sheets can be bought which are moulded to produce life-like roots, rocks and riverbanks in plastic or foam.
These are fixed inside the aquarium and become part of the decor.
What makes a good aquarium? First of all, the glass must be high quality and of sufficient thickness. There are trade guidelines which state that aquaria designed to have a water depth greater than 44cm/17"? must be constructed of at least 6mm thick glass.
Where aquaria are 90cm/36"? or greater in length, they should be made in 6mm glass when exceeding 38cm/15" in height, and in 10mm glass where the water depth exceeds 45cm/18" depth.
Silicone joints should be neat and tidy. There should be absolutely no damage to the edges or joints of the glass and no flaws in the panels.
A floating base obviates the need for polystyrene cushioning under the aquarium.
Where bracing bars are used, give a thought as to how they might affect access for equipment.
If using an older-style "wooden" hood or canopy, does the aquarium have a condensation cover and does this fit well while still allowing easy access to the water?
Choose the right size
Standard aquaria are now usually sold in centimetres rather than inches. So 60cm, 80cm, 100cm and 120cm are becoming standard sizes in place of the old 24"?, 30"?, 36"? and 48"? measurements.
In order that these sizes hold more water, some manufacturers are supplying taller aquaria. These can look better and allow more natural shoaling behaviour from your fish, too.
For aquaria larger than 120cm/48", you may have to place a special order for both the aquarium and cabinet.
Here's a quick guide to aquarium use by size:
45-60cm/18-24"?: Two small goldfish; OR a shoal (six) White Cloud Mountain minnows, Neons or similar-sized fish with a few Corydoras or other bottom-dwelling fish; Or opt for a single pair of spawning fish like dwarf cichlids.
80-100cm/30-39"?: A shoal of six small goldfish; OR a tropical community with small surface swimming, mid-water and bottom swimming fish; OR a small Rift Valley community of cichlids.
120cm/48": A community of goldfish and other coldwater species; OR a community of tropicals which can include larger fish like plecs, angels or other peaceful cichlids; OR a home for a single large Oscar or other cichlid; OR a home for some of the oddball species such as a single Polypterus or lungfish.
Styles
There are probably three basic styles of aquaria freely available. These are perhaps best defined as:
Bare bones - the basic aquarium with no equipment, except perhaps a hood or canopy.
Equipped - the basic aquarium with all the compatible equipment you need to run it supplied.
Systemised - an aquarium with fitted filtration, sometimes concealing the heating and in the case of marine aquaria, a foam fractionator (protein skimmer) and other equipment.
In different circumstances, all three are worth considering.
Clearly if you already have a lot of equipment, you may only need a "bare bones" replacement aquarium, and if you're after an odd-shaped or very large custom-built aquarium, this may be the most economic choice.
Fully equipped aquaria will invariably work out cheaper, whether you're buying a manufacturer's dedicated set or an aquarium and equipment put together by your local retailer. Each piece of the equipment should be compatible with the rest.
Systemised aquaria are often beautifully neat and tidy, but may be less adaptable than some set-ups if you want to change your filtration or even your water chemistry.
They do make especially good starter tanks, however. In some cases, all you need do is just add water and plug it in.
Site an aquarium away from...
Draughts, heat sources like radiators, direct sunlight (which promotes algae growth), corridors with rampaging children or pets, uneven floors, weak second-storey floors, and any other sources of loud noise.
Site it near...
An electricity supply (but not over it where a socket might be splashed); a source of tapwater (but not in the fumes and heat of a kitchen); a window (avoiding direct sunlight, if you want to syphon water onto the garden - a good green second use of your water change).
Glass or acrylic?
Acrylic pros: It's less brittle and stronger than glass, and will therefore survive small knocks and bangs better than glass. It's lighter, so easier to move around when empty.
It can be moulded in practically any shape, so you can buy unusual aquaria off-the-shelf and not rely on silicone joints.
Scratches can be polished out or lightened.
Acrylic offers more insulation and often comes with a lifetime guarantee.
Finally, acrylic tanks are incredibly easy to drill.
Acrylic cons: It scratches easily and will usually be more expensive than glass.
Glass pros: It doesn't scratch easily, and it's much cheaper than acrylic. It's easier to clean without damaging the surface.
It's probably easier to repair any damage (but not scratches). Glass is also less likely to be damaged by heat from overhead lighting.
Glass cons: Glass is brittle and if it does scratch, there's little you can do about it. It's heavy and as the volume of the aquarium increases, it needs to be thicker and thicker.
Glass aquaria are much more widely available than acrylic.
Hoods and canopies
Some very good hoods and canopies are now available with built-in waterproof lighting. These usually eliminate a lot of the old problems such as poor access to the aquarium. Here's what to look for when buying:
• If you want to develop new interests in the hobby (plants, marines), the hood should hold at least two tubes, preferably more.
• It should be easy to clean the aquarium without totally removing the hood.
• You need easy access for the cables of filters, heaters and lighting.
• You need waterproof lighting and a rot-proof hood material.
• You should have built-in light reflectors.
There are also special features like drip-proof canopies, which help avoid water-stained glass.
Cabinets
A purpose-made aquarium cabinet is a good idea as you can virtually guarantee that it will support the weight of your water-filled aquarium.
Now that aquariums are pieces of furniture, designed with your furniture and decor in mind, there's a wide choice of styles and designs. Although the minimum colour range choice is beech or black, many companies offer silver/grey cabinets, and custom builders can match virtually any colour or timber.
When buying, consider the cabinet design. It should be strong enough - but does it have room for an external filter if you want to use one? Will the cables and any pipes fit through the back of the cabinet.
Is it easy to keep your test kits, nets, syphons and other equipment tucked away inside the cabinet?
If you need to fit a hidden child-lock, is it suitable? Will the finish gradually be damaged by water?
Backdrops
Backdrops are the oft-forgotten finishing touch to any aquarium. In fact, the term "backdrop" is largely redundant now as many backdrops fit inside the aquarium.
Traditionally there were several options for the glass at the back of an aquarium. It could be painted from the outside (black was the usual choice); covered with adhesive plastic sheet; covered with a plastic photographic backdrop featuring the manufacturer's idea of the underwater biotope of your fish; or backed with various eccentric improvisations such as black plastic rubbish bags (surprisingly effective) or cork tiles.
Now some superb internal backing sheets can be bought which are moulded to produce life-like roots, rocks and riverbanks in plastic or foam.
These are fixed inside the aquarium and become part of the decor.